Wednesday, October 9, 2013

What You Should Know About Champion Radiators

Champion_Cooling_Systems_Radiator

Champion Radiator Why We're Different

If you are considering purchasing an aluminum radiator for your car or truck, there are a few things you should know about aluminum radiators in general and about the Champion brand in particular that set us apart from the competition.

When you choose an aluminum radiator over a traditional copper-brass, you will find several differences are apparent immediately, the first being that the radiator is lighter than it's out-dated cousin.

Second, the core is thinner, owing to the fact that a copper-brass radiator has smaller tubes running throughout the core. This results in it needing more rows of tubes to affect proper cooling when compared with an aluminum core (four rows of tubing in a copper-brass are roughly equivalent to two rows in an all-aluminum radiator). More rows = a thicker core and a heavier radiator.  

Lastly, it is a much better-looking radiator, the all-aluminum tanks and core being a huge improvement over the traditional black tanks on a copper-brass.   In this post I won't go into all the differences or pros and cons of aluminum vs. copper-brass (we'll cover that in another post). Instead, let's take a look at what makes a Champion Radiator different--and better quality--than the competition.  

Take a look at the Infogram below, which highlights the features you will find in every Champion Cooling System radiator.


Champion Radiators Features  
 
First is the Braised Core Technology. Copper-brass radiators are soldered using different metals, while aluminum radiators are BRAISED, a fusing process that results in a more uniform product.  
Next, is the number of fins per inch,.which is 14 to 16 fins per inch, (42 per square inch) resulting in 1500 more fins than other aluminum radiators and 3000 more than OEM Copper. Additionally, our fins are constructed with Max Cool™ Louvered Technology and our Tubes are spaced 3/8' apart, giving you approximately 25% more rows within the core than similar aluminum radiators, and 35% more rows than OEM copper. These features combine to give you superior air flow and a cooler-running engine.  

All of our radiators have a thick, Billet Fill Neck for superior strength, and are 100% Tig Welded. What does this mean? No epoxy is used in the manufacture of our radiators.   Our radiators are constructed of 100% Aircraft Grade Aluminum with 2mm Thick Fittings and Tanks. We also include an OEM-Style Brass Petcock and a High Performance Radiator Cap.

Last but not least, Champion radiators are backed by a Limited Lifetime Manufacturer's Warranty so you can rest assured that your product is engineered to last and we stand behind it 100%. It's easy for a manufacturer to claim that their products are superior in quality, longer lasting, more cost-effective, etc. But it's another thing when they can actually back it up.  

We're no different here at Champion. We are confident that our radiators are the best all-aluminum radiators on the market and are superior not only to OEM copper-brass radiators, but to our competitor's products as well. Try one yourself and you'll see the Champion Difference!

The Time Bandit Car: A '55 Chevy complete with a Champion Radiator - Champion Cooling Systems

The Time Bandit Car: A '55 Chevy complete with a Champion Radiator - Champion Cooling Systems

Johnathan Hillstrand's "Time Bandit" Car Built by Slick's Garage - Complete with a Champion Radiator Under the Hood

Time Bandit Car with a Champion Radiator featured in Super ChevyTime Bandit 55 Chevy with a Champion Radiator Everyone who watches The Discovery Channel's reality show The Deadliest Catch knows who Johnathan Hillstrand and The Time Bandit are. The crusty Hillstrand and his brother Andy are two of the show's most popular crab boat captains and thousands watch the black pirate-themed ship and her crew elude disaster each week out in the treacherous Bering Sea.   These days, when Hillstand is on dry land, he can often be spotted in a super-cool black '55 Chevy that share's the ship's name and familiar skull and crossbones emblem on more than a few flat surfaces.   The car was built by our friend Slick, of Slick's Garage, in Palmetto, Florida. Super Chevy Magazine did a full story on the build, which was featured in the August 2013 issue.

The Time Bandit Car Before
Hillstrand got the idea for the car from the movie American Graffiti, and says he has wanted a black '55 like that ever since seeing the movie at the drive-in decades ago. He has always had Chevy's in his blood; his first car was a '57 with a 283 and a three-speed on the column. After he wrecked it, he got a '55 with a 396 that put out nearly 600 horses, which was apparently too much, as the not-even-sixteen-year-old Hillstrand lost his license due to not being able to keep his foot out of it. It wasn't long after that that the young Hillstrand took North to Alaska to become a crabber.          


 Then, just a few years ago, Hillstrand looked up Slick and so began the evolution of The Time Bandit Car. They found the long-neglected Tri-Five on Craigslist, and although she was rough, she had a 400 small block and a Muncie four-speed, which Slick says "Was wicked enough to do the original movie car justice". He then began the labor-of-love process of rebuilding the classic Chevy into a better-than-new and highly customized machine.  

 

 

 

Here's a round-up of The Time Bandit Car's features:

  • A tilting one-piece glass nose
  • Weiand Super-Charged 502 Big Block
  • 830 CFM Holley Carburetor
  • Spectre Twin-Snorkel Induction
  • Carter Pump and Hedman Hedders
  • Champion Radiator
  • Custom 2x4" Frame attached to a C4 Corvette Suspension
 
Champion Radiator in The Time Bandit Car
Slick also outfitted the car with electric exhaust cut-outs, a Monster Transmission 4L80E and a Fleetpride custom driveshaft. American Racing Daisy wheels are wrapped with Nitto NT555 rubber for a smooth ride and era-correct look. Slick also shaved the door handles, gas flap and emblems and added skull headlights and taillights.   Inside, Pontiac seats were skinned with diamond tuck and white piping, and a push-button start sits on the dash next to a chromed column. Last but not least, Slick adorned the rear bench with a lighted version of his logo. Click Here to View the Photo Gallery

Painting Like a Pro with a 1968 Mustang - Champion Cooling Systems

1968-ford-mustang-side-view-how=to=paintPainting Like a Pro with a 1968 Mustang - Champion Cooling Systems

Painting Like a Pro with an Unrestored 1968 Ford Mustang Coupe

A top trade school shows you how to restore your classic muscle car with show-quality results

By Christopher Campbell, Photography by Christopher Campbell, Jorge Nunez Popular Hot Rodding, May 01, 2013

If you think about it, there's really a pretty short list of things that truly separate mediocre cars from the ones that draw all the attention and envy at a show. Sure, extreme fabrication and customization, an outrageously powerful or exotic engine, a well-sorted suspension with a great stance, and kickass wheels will all get you noticed. But if the paint and bodywork is subpar or nonexistent, you're guaranteed to field endless queries along the lines of, "When are you going to paint it?"

That's because appearances really do matter, and the car will always be seen as unfinished if it isn't sporting a slick layer of color over straight sheetmetal. That's just how it is. In our opinion, if you never do anything else to your project, paint it.  

For this paint and body special, we had a unique opportunity. Typically we pick a strategy, such as low-buck DIY, or show you how the industry pros do top-level paintjobs, but this time we're going to a place where amateurs, hobbyists, and enthusiasts learn the skills to become professional: Los Angeles Trade-Tech College.   Los Angeles Trade-Tech College is a fully accredited college with an expansive curriculum with disciplines ranging from Art Trades to Fashion, Mathematics, and Sciences. Brian Ferre, an experienced custom painter and restorer, teaches students in the Automotive Collision Repair department. The classes are a combination of classroom instruction coupled with hands-on training where students learn welding procedures, body panel alignment, metal finishing/shrinking/filling techniques, body section replacement, structural sectioning practices, body damage estimating techniques, paint application, and standard body shop practices.


Basically you can walk in as a total newbie and walk out with a very hirable and in-demand set of skills.   Step one in any paint and body project is assessing the paint that's already on the car and deciding what to do with it. Ideally, that's as little as possible. Unless you have rust, improperly repaired old damage, or paint that's too far gone to work with, it's usually best not to strip it to bare metal. (Interesting factoid: We were able to satisfactorily restore an old repaint using Mothers products back in our Nov. '12 issue when we did a weekend resto on our '68 Plymouth Valiant.)

Bottom line, if the original factory primer and paint is in good condition, it's an excellent base on which to start. Plus, stripping to steel requires much more time, material, and money that can be better spent.   In our case, the Mustang still wore its original paint under a couple of super cheap resprays. Unfortunately, in a few spots the differing contraction of incompatible paints had resulted in cracking and flaking away of all the paint.   That can make it difficult to simply sand down to the good original paint, and use glaze and filler primer to level the surface.

We're never proponents of painting cars with the trim and bumpers installed, since it's guaranteed to spoil the seamlessness of the colors and invite overspray. It also provides a good opportunity to fully inspect the car, and in our case it's a good thing we did. During our disassembly phase to remove trim and other parts, Ferre spotted a few things that needed to be investigated.  

Read more: HERE on the Popular Hot Rodding website.  

The Champion Cooling Channel Video Shoots - Champion Cooling Systems

The Champion Cooling Channel Video Shoots - Champion Cooling Systems

Champion Cooling Channel Video Shoots

Champion Cooling Channel video shootsWe're having fun here interviewing and filming some of the cool cars that have Champion Radiators under the hood for our Champion Under the Hood Video Series.  

Stay tuned for The Champion Cooling Channel...coming soon to a pc or mobile device near you!

1972 Dodge Charger Cooled by Champion - Champion Cooling Systems

1972 Dodge Charger Cooled by Champion - Champion Cooling Systems

Video: Andy's Auto Sport Installs a Champion Radiator - Champion Cooling Systems

Video: Andy's Auto Sport Installs a Champion Radiator - Champion Cooling Systems

Chevy's Bad Boy Big Block - Champion Cooling Systems

Chevy's Bad Boy Big Block - Champion Cooling Systems